Spring Events on Cape Cod!

For the first time I can remember in the six years I've lived on the Cape, we are actually experiencing a beautiful spring climate. Starting in late March, temperatures suddenly spiked into the 60’s and while we still suffer the occasional cool, rainy period, the majority of days now require just a light jacket, sunglasses, and occasionally I’ve broken out my favorite flip flops!

With the pleasant weather come several spring events well worth taking advantage of. The Dolphin Fleet has started its annual whale watching expeditions – a favorite amongst locals and tourists alike. We have already had guests take advantage of this activity and were able to see nearly a dozen whales on one trip!

Also coming up is the annual Nantucket Daffodil Festival on the weekend of April 24 and 25. A day trip to Nantucket from Chatham is easy on the high speed ferry and well worth it, particularly this weekend with over 3 million daffodils of every bloom and color imaginable.

Finally, did you know that April 24th is National Go Bird Watching Day? What better place to attempt to see dozens of species of birds than Cape Cod, home to the Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary, one of Massachusetts Audubon's largest and most beautiful sanctuaries. Also, just down the street from the Captains House Inn is Monomoy Wildlife Refuge which provides important resting, nesting and feeding habitat for migratory birds, including the Federally protected piping plover and roseate tern.

Not only are spring activities becoming more doable now that the weather has improved, but some of our favorite restaurants are opening for the season including the Cape Sea Grille, now opened, and Pisces of Chatham, opening April 29th. Don’t miss out on the first spring the Cape has had in years and book your reservation at the Captains House Inn (winter rates are still in effect!) today.

Norabella in Dennis Hits Homerun!

Though it is about to celebrate its one year anniversary, I hadn't known about Norabella's existence until just recently. With just eight tables in a cozy, yet uncrowded space, it is no wonder the chef/owner at this Italian eatery feels no need to advertise. Word of mouth seems to do the trick, especially when diners are given no reason to spread anything other than glowing reviews amongst family and friends.

While the menu is not extensive, it is certainly much larger than I would expect from such a tiny establishment. In fact, with three entree specials in addition to their regular offerings, all three diners in my party had trouble deciding. In the end, we settled on a spinach and mushroom vegetarian lasagna, a double cut pork chop with pancetta and mushrooms and caramelized onions demi glaze, and on the waitress’s strong (and accurate) rave review of the chicken marsala, I opted for this special dish of the evening. For appetizers, we shared another special – calamari soup as well as Melanzana all griglia – grilled eggplant with spinach, roasted tomatoes, basil and smoked mozzarella. Everything was outstanding, particularly, in my opinion the specials – clearly the chef utilizes the freshest ingredients he can find in all his cooking, but the specials really stood out and exemplified his use of creating distinctive, flavorful dishes based on these fresh, seasonal ingredients. Unfortunately we left no room for dessert, but were almost tempted by a unique variation on traditional canolis – these made with pistachios, candied orange, and chocolate chunks.

While I can’t speak highly enough about the exceptional food at Norabella, the service almost outshined the meal. Our waitress was extremely personable without being intrusive. She knew the menu inside out and was happy to offer ordering advice and recommendations when requested.

Situated right on route 28 along a less than scenic strip, this inviting eatery is truly an unexpected gem. Reservations are accepted (508) 398-6672. Open year round starting at 4:30 pm. Closed Mondays. Wine dinners are held monthly.

Ocean House Open for the Season

While March always feels like the longest month of the year, particularly for us New Englanders who have a severe case of spring fever and know warm weather is a good month away, the month always holds a sense of excitement and anticipation as restaurants begin to open for the season. Despite the fact that the Cape is still quiet in March, restaurateurs tend to open their doors several weeks before the crowds flock over the bridge, allowing them time to fine tune their menus and service during the slower pace.

On Wednesday, March 10th (which also happens to be my birthday), the Ocean House Restaurant in Dennis opened for the season and James and I were lucky enough to dine at a coveted window table. We hadn’t been to the Ocean House in about five years, but left feeling much the same we had when we had been previously. The food was exceptional, the acoustics were a bit loud, and the view was lovely. But let me start from the beginning.

During the shoulder season, the Ocean House offers a three course price fixed menu nightly for $26. For each course, there is a large range of choices and I would be surprised if ordering off the regular menu made any difference on portion size. We started with filet mignon lettuce wraps and vegetarian spring rolls, both beautifully presented, and more importantly fresh and tasty. I moved on to a gourmet thin crust pizza topped with rosemary chicken breast, spinach, mushrooms, and goat cheese – yum - and James enjoyed pork tenderloin with barbequed white beans and shallot crackling. Dessert was the only disappointment – while I licked my chocolate pudding cake off the plate, James’ blueberry buckle was little more than a mediocre blueberry muffin.

The service was a tad rushed – from start to finish, we were there exactly one hour, which, for three courses (and a rare opportunity to linger over a child-free meal), we felt the pace could have been a bit more leisurely. Still, it was opening night, and this is one of the minor glitches that we’re sure will be addressed as the season progresses.

The view from our window seat, even after sunset was lovely with spotlights highlighting the Nantucket Sound. We highly recommend requesting a window seat – while the other tables are adequate, housed in a wood paneled open dining room with exposed brick fireplace leading to the bar, they pale in comparison to the water views.

The Ocean House is currently opened for dinner Wednesday through Sunday and reservations are suggested. Dessert disappointment and pace aside, for exceptional food and gorgeous views, this is one restaurant we will recommend and return to again.

Cape Cod Gift Ideas Part II

For those of you following us on Twitter, we now have posted twenty great Cape Cod gift ideas to help you with your holiday shopping. Over the next ten days, we will post ten more. You can learn about them on Twitter every day at noon, or we will post them here in ten days.

Idea # 11 - A sand snowflake ornament from your favorite Cape Cod Beach.
Idea #12 - A carved house number sign from the Chatham Sign Shop.
Idea #13 - A glass plate (or bowl) from Sydenstrickers.
Idea #14 - Gourmet oil and vinegar from Gustare - one of our favorites is the Cinnamon Pear Balsamic.
Idea # 15 - A Captain's House Inn robe.
Idea # 16 - A gift certifcate to Buca's - one of our favorite year round restaurants.
Idea #17 - A Cape Cod photograph from Jon Vaughan - the Peaked Hills is one of our favorites.
Idea # 18 - A subscription to Cape Cod Life Magazine.
Idea #19 - A "Dogs of Cape Cod" 2010 calendar.
Idea #20 - A Cape Cod doormat.

Cape Cod Fall Specials

With the off-season approaching, this is a perfect time to visit the Cape for some excellent deals. We are now officially in our winter rates and for extra value, offer a mid-week special starting in November.

Cape Sea Grille - Harwich - Has a $25 3 course special, which they are offering Thursday, Friday and Sunday all night and Saturdays between 5 and 545 pm.

DelMar Bistro - Chatham - Offering a $18 three course dinner Sunday through Thursdays. Jill had the pan roasted salmon which was delicous.

Ocean House - Dennis - Enjoy water views and a three course prix fixe menu for $26 Wednesday through Sunday evenings.

Wild Goose Tavern - Chatham - Thursday night is ladies night with 1/2 price apps from 3 till close.

November is an ideal time to visit the Captains House Inn and Cape Cod - with these great deals, a luxurious, romantic getaway is easy on the wallet and a much needed reprieve from the hustle and bustle of your daily routine.

Dining in Wellfleet and Provincetown

Just a few weeks before our second baby is due to arrive, James and I managed to squeeze in a one night getaway to Provincetown, complete with two uninterrupted meals and one uninterrupted nights sleep. We will look back on that 24 hour period fondly over the next few months, not only because of the peace and quiet we enjoyed, but because the restaurants in which we dined were exceptional - and good food, to us, is often the highlight of our fondest memories.

On the drive up to Provincetown, we stopped in Wellfleet, a small artist’s town, which, despite its diminutive size, is packed with galleries, boutiques, and great restaurants, most of which specialize in local fare. We had heard positive reviews about a place called the Bookstore and Restaurant and decided to give it a try. Though completely different from our expectations (we had envisioned a less modern, more cutesy Barnes and Nobel type operation), the Bookstore Restaurant was a fantastic kick off to our 24 hour escape. Overlooking the harbor, the eatery is a casual, family owned throwback in time. We dined on the glassed in porch just beside the makeshift oyster shucking bar where the young men casually shucked as if they had been doing so since they could walk (which just may have been true!). The menu is extensive with everything from salads to fried fare to sandwiches and burgers and plenty of Wellfleet oysters, of course. I enjoyed one of my all time favorites – a lobster roll, which, for $14.95 was packed with more lobster meat than some competitors’ $20 rival rolls. James ordered an oyster stew – a simple chowder base chock full of the local specialty, bursting with flavor and just the right consistency. After our meal, we sauntered over to the bookstore – talk about a throwback in time! The store was bursting at the seams with an eclectic collection of reading material and the woman who pleasantly greeted us warned us that if the dust was too much – “run for the door!” Book lovers could probably spend hours exploring the haphazard collections packed onto the shelves, but we cut our visit short and hit the road to our final destination – Provincetown – where we spent a leisurely afternoon working up an appetite for our next meal.

Dinner was booked well in advance as was recommended, at the Red Inn, a 200 year old property overlooking Provincetown Harbor. We were seated at a window table overlooking the water, where, as the evening wore on, we watched the tide gradually creep right up to the inn and wash away the single set of footsteps that were so perfectly plotted along the shoreline, it looked like a postcard. This was, by far, one of the most romantic restaurants we’ve dined at – the intimate, dimly lit dining room was arranged so we could hardly see other patrons and the old world, rustic feel complete with wide plank floors, a brick fireplace, and beamed ceilings, was just our speed. Pair the setting with world class food and an impressive wine list, and we could see why the Red Inn receives glowing accolades and requires reservations six weeks in advance in the high season. To start, I couldn’t resist the lobster and artichoke fondue in a sourdough bowl while James chose the bacon wrapped fried oysters. After my dramatic love affair with the fondue during which I actually silenced James so I could fully focus on the dish, my entrée, a special that evening, halibut with capers and Kalamata olives over Israeli couscous arrived along with James’ chili rubbed double thick pork chop. Both dishes were fantastic and we finished the evening with a big slice of homemade peanut butter mousse pie – okay, I ate most of it, but I’m eating for two and James knows not to take more than a taste or two of his pregnant wife’s dessert. We sunk into a food induced coma that night – our last sound sleep for awhile.

Both restaurants are open year round.

Gracie's Tables Makes the Cut

I must have driven by Gracie's Tables on Old King's Highway (a.k.a. route 6A) in Dennis dozens of times during my six years of living on Cape Cod. But it wasn’t until a friend suggested we go treat ourselves to tapas one evening that I knew it existed. From the moment I walked in the door, I was sold – a cozy bar area with high tops and a small, but well stocked copper bar is in the entrance leading to an intimate dining room. The room held just a handful of tables, which being nine months pregnant at the time, I was particularly delighted to find were surrounded by comfy banquettes and cushy throw pillows. Upstairs, I learned, were more tables making a relatively average size restaurant seem far more cozy. I hoped the food would measure up to the warm, inviting atmosphere and as luck would have it, I wasn’t disappointed.

A welcome diversion from traditional Cape Cod menus, Gracie’s Tables is the Cape’s original Tapas restaurant featuring Spanish tapas and petite entrees with influences from southwest France and northern Spain and an emphasis on local, organic ingredients. While the petite entrees were tempting (particularly the fish of the day – swordfish topped with local fried oysters), we stood by our original plan and sampled several tapas plates. The Pa Amb Tomaquet (tomato bread) is a must – bursting with tomato, sea salt, and garlic flavors, it was the perfect start to our feast. We continued with frog’s legs (the meat fell right off the bone and they were served with a tasty confetti of garlic, tomato, shallot and parsley) and beet risotto – not something I would typically order, but I was pleasantly surprised with a subdued beet flavor coupled with creamy goat cheese. Three more tapas followed - perfectly cooked, melt in your mouth scallop and chorizo skewers, spinach fritters with spicy aioli and chili sauce (though not labor inducingly spicy, unfortunately), and patatas bravas (a.k.a. French fries), which were not as crispy as I would have preferred, but the sweet and sour dipping sauce made up for the lack of crunch. We didn’t save room for dessert, but the couple next to us was drooling over something decadently chocolately looking which I learned was the house specialty Valhrona Chocolate Cake, made up of 70% dark chocolate – wow! My only complaint? To put it delicately, the garlic taste in my mouth didn’t quite dissipate until breakfast the following morning, but perhaps if I had indulged in that chocolate dessert, I could have warded off my pungent breath sooner.

Gracie’s Tables is open year round with limited days during the off season. Reservations are accepted.

Clancy's Restaurant - Another New Restaurant Discovery for Us!

Once again, we have stepped out of our comfort zone and ventured off to a new restaurant. And once again, we have found a winner. Clancy’s Restaurant in Dennis Port is the epitome of an old school Cape Cod eatery complete with Prime Rib night on Fridays and Saturdays and renowned fresh fish n’ chips. Clancy’s is a favorite amongst locals, but also packs in the visitors in the summer months – and with good reason. The food is fresh and plentiful and the prices are very reasonable. Pair that with friendly service and views of the Swan River, and there’s no question why Clancy’s has been the recipient of Reader’s Choice and Zagat awards for years on end.

We visited on a Wednesday night in February. Despite gloomy weather and tourist season being months away, the restaurant was generating pretty decent business. We started with fried oysters which happen to be my personal favorite and, of which I am a pretty ruthless critic. For an appetizer portion, the serving was plentiful – in fact, I could have had that for my meal and been satisfied. They were honestly some of the best fried oysters I’ve had – cooked perfectly and not over-battered which is a giant pet peeve of mine. Next, we both opted for burgers – half pound Angus ones with our choice of fixings. Yum! Granted, it’s hard to screw up a burger, but when we ask for it to be cooked rare and it actually comes out nice and pink (a request many chefs tend to over-do, perhaps out of fear of mad cow disease or something), we know we’ve found a kitchen where quality food is produced. I think the only burgers around that perhaps rival Clancy’s are those at the Red Nun, a local watering hole with exceptional pub food.

Will we return to Clancy’s? Absolutely – probably for Prime Rib night. And we will certainly recommend it to guests – particularly those seeking a casual venue with great food, service, and best of all, that old Cape Cod atmosphere, which, with newer more sophisticated restaurants sprouting up, is a rarity. As an added bonus, Clancy’s is open seven nights a week year round – who says there’s not much open on Cape Cod in the winter?

A New (But Old) Restaurant Discovery

As innkeepers, one of the hardest parts of the job is testing out all the restaurants in the area to determine the best to recommend. I’m being sarcastic, of course. There’s nothing we love more than to put our food critic hats on and see how eateries in the area stack up. After living here for five years, we certainly have our favorites and, as creatures of habit, rarely venture off our old stand-bys in search of something new. But after hearing the rave review from our trusted cohorts in the dining analysis practice (my in-laws), we abandoned our comfort zone and booked a table at the Old Yarmouth Inn.

I have to admit, my expectations weren’t high. As much as I trust my in-laws on restaurant advice, I felt like if I hadn’t yet discovered this landmark, which, according to their website has been around since pre-Revolutionary War days, it couldn’t possibly be anything to write home about. I was wrong. Set in a sprawling historic inn, the restaurant’s many smaller dining rooms feel cozy despite the 200 seats actually there. With wood paneled walls and a roaring fireplace, the tavern was our pick on the cold winter night we dined. Our waitress was friendly and helpful, yet unobtrusive and the menu was extensive, yet not overwhelming, allowing us to select from tavern or dining room fare. Also unexpected was an impressive wine list which has received the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence for seven years running and offers more than 18 wines by the glass and 115 from the wine cellar.

To start, we enjoyed carpaccio of beef with shaved Asiago and capers. While not the best we’ve ever had, it was certainly tasty and about what we expected from a casual, traditional eatery. For our entrees, I decided on honey mustard glazed salmon with cucumber, caper, and mango compote. I asked for the salmon cooked rare, as is my preference, and the chef delivered (often, I find this request gets overlooked). James opted for a braised short rib beef stew which was served piping hot and was out of this world – he went so far as to claim that it was the most tender beef he had ever had. For James, this was a bold statement. While we were too full for a third course, the dessert menu was tempting as was the three course $19.95 prix fixe menu offered in the winter at lunch daily, all night Sunday through Thursday, and 4:30-6:00pm on Friday and Saturday.

While a bit of a drive from the inn (30 minutes without traffic), we didn’t hesitate to add it to our recommendations list – especially since it is open 364 days a year and exuded a Cape Cod ambiance unrivaled by many other local spots.

English Holiday Afternoon Tea at the Captain's House Inn

With the holidays just around the corner, we look forward to serving our annual holiday afternoon tea menu soon. Relax in our decorated tea room and get in the holiday spirit. The menu features cucumber cups with smoked salmon pate, traditional Branston pickle with cheddar, mushroom pasties, mini English Triffle and a selection of desserts and scones (click here for the full menu). This menu is available every day from 3 to 5 pm, November 29th to December 29th, 2008 for $18.00 per person. For groups of six to 25, this festive menu is also available as a private luncheon, perfect for a holiday party. As always, year round luncheons are available every day, starting at 12:15pm, at $22.00 per person and reservations are required. Please visit our website or call us at 800.315.0728 with any questions or to make your reservation. Happy Holidays!

Kick Ass Clam Chowder?

While the name of the chowder at Joe's at the Barleyneck Inn is "Kick-Ass New England Clam Chowder," we are not sure that this chowder lives up to its name. While there were a decent amound of clams in this recipe, there wasn't much flavor and the consistency was much too thick for our taste. It was only slightly improved with a lot of salt and pepper. With a bit of seasoning this chowder might be Kick-Ass, but we just didn't think it was at this time.

On a positive note, the pub grub at Joe's is generally good - tasty thin crust pizza, juicy burgers, and a rib special that literally fell off the bone. And, October is a fantastic time to visit as Joe cleans out his wine cellar annually and all bottles are discounted at 50%! And this is no shabby wine list either - it has been a yearly recipient of the Wine Spectator Restaurant Award of Excellence since 2001.

Chowder's On At The Nun!

The Red Nun is a new-ish addition to the restaurant scene in Chatham. Over the last couple years it has gained a reputation as one of the few places I can honestly say still feels "local" even in the height of the tourist season. Its no frills decor bodes well with the locals and it doesn't hurt that the bar is always bustling, the flat screen TV's are tuned to the right games, and the pub style food hits the spot. The chowder is no exception - with heaps of big clams and chunks of "just right" potatoes, the Red Nun's chowder delivered on our expectations. We needed to add just a bit of salt and pepper to kick the flavor up a touch, but all in all, this was some of the better chowder we tasted. The best part, though? If you're in the mood for a pint of beer and a bowl of chowdah, the Nun is just the right atmosphere.

The Port's Chowder

Even though we think we found the best chowder on the Cape, the search continues (slowly). We recently visited the Port, in Harwichport, MA. The Port is a trendy restaurant with a bustling atmosphere and great bar scene. We haven't been in a while, but we were impressed. The chowder at the Port had a great consistancey, not too thick for us, but not watery. It had nice chunks of potatoes, lots of bacon, and a great taste (our waitress asked if we wanted fresh ground pepper, but we did not think that this one needed it). Our biggest complaint would be the lack of clams. We are guessing that the price of clams makes it difficult for restaurants to put bigger pieces in, but that was the only thing missing from this chowder. It is a great choice if you want to sit at the bar, have a drink, and talk to some of the locals.

Impudent Oyster Chowder

The Impudent Oyster is a landmark in Chatham – the ambiance is bustling and the tables are always full and hard to come by in the summer. The reason? Certainly people aren’t flocking here for the décor which is minimal and somewhat rustic. They come for the food which is consistently outstanding and draws customers back, sometimes multiple times during their vacation. With this in mind, we decided a sample of their chowder, or, as they call it “Yesterday’s Quahog Chowder,” was a must. We were surprised to find that while certainly tasty, this was not at the top of our list. The clams and potatoes were plentiful and the consistency was a bit on the creamier side, but we felt it was lacking a bit in the flavor department. With a bit of doctoring up with some salt and pepper, we did enjoy the chowder and do recommend it, particularly since the atmosphere lends itself to the chowder and beer image we all have in our minds.

Chatham Bars Inn Chowder

While one typically envisions their clam chowder dining experience as casually slurping down a bowl with a pint of beer and perhaps the Red Sox game broadcasting on the bar’s TV, we couldn’t complain about the water views and fine china that accompanied our bowl of chowder at the Chatham Bars Inn. This was certainly the most different chowder we have sampled so far. Rather than spoonfuls of chunky potatoes and tender clams, the Chatham Bars Inn version was more of a purée than chowder. Though far from what we expected, the flavors were fantastic while perhaps a bit salty for some. Sometimes, it’s best not to mess with a classic, but we think the Chatham Bars Inn did a fine job of putting a gourmet spin on a New England tradition.

Roo Bar Chowder

One might think that with a new baby our search for the perfect chowder would be put on the back burner. However, we are trying to expose Abigail to our favorite pastime of dining out well before she is actually able to enjoy anything off the menu. So, while she downed a few ounces of formula, we downed a couple cups of chowder. The Roo Bar's version is on the creamier side, but not "stick to your spoon (and ultimately your gut)" thick. While we would have preferred a few more clams, the ones that were there were cooked well and there were plenty of potatoes for a those who prefer a heartier bisque. Overall, we enjoyed the flavors, but personally prefer our chowder a little less creamy and a little more clammy!

Captain Linnell House chowder

For those of you who do not know us that well, the Captain Linnell House in Orleans, MA, is a special place for us. We were married there back in 2001 and go every year for our anniversary. This year when I opened the menu, at the top was Clam Chowder and the menu claimed it was the best. Upon arrival of their clam chowder, I received a wonderful aroma. It was nicely presented, with chives on top. No oyster crackers, but with their rolls, one does not need crackers. The chowder had a great consistency, not too thick, just the perfect creaminess. It tasted great and I was truly impressed. My biggest complaint would be the amount of clams. I would have been looking for more, but other than that, this may be the best (it is only our second entry, but it was good). The Captain Linnell House is not the type of place to go just for a bowl of chowder as it is a romantic sea captain's home, but if you are looking for good chowder and a nice meal, it is a great choice.